RV-ing on land and sea…..
The RV’s are ready to go and we picked up our pre-ordered fresh cinnamon buns from the cafe at the corner of the RV Park. On the road at 8 am. with a long driving day in front of us and our cinnamon buns waiting to be devoured we leave La Paz behind and make our way north to Puerto Escondido on the Sea of Cortez.
Our day went well and we arrived to the Marina around 2:30 where we parked for the night. This is a lovely relaxing place with the bay full of sail boats. We walked, sat, read, and had happy hour and dinner at home tonight.
At 5 pm the owner of nearby Hotel Tripui came by with menus and an invitation and a ride to dine at their restaurant but we declined. Maybe if he had come by earlier we may have accepted.
It was a nice night, the water was glistening and the fish playful.
Mulege
It rained this morning and first thing Dom changed one of our RV tires. Our vehicles are well used and eventually things like tires wear out. Dom checks them regularly and better to change in a parking lot than on the road side.
It was a short driving day today with the rain stopping at noon about the same time we arrived to Mulege and Hotel Serenidad RV Park for 2 nights camping in their full serviced Rv Park including a pool and access to use of the hotel lobby and sitting areas.
On route we came across a vado (a low point in the road where flood water crosses and flows away) or in some cases doesn’t flow away causing a huge puddle preventing vehicles from continuing. Luckily for us a local was on the scene and directed us across the safest way. Often you just have to sit and wait for the water to flow away and sometimes the army arrives and helps people through.
The lineup of beaches and looked tempting and we all looked longingly at Playa Santispac where we stayed on our southerly trend.
We arrived to Hotel Serenidad in Mulege around noon. The spaces were all available for us; the group set up and had lunch then we were off on a driving tour of town taking in a visit to the mission then a walk around town to do banking and shopping.
Back at the Park we walked on the beach, rested, had showers and met at 5 pm for happy hour before loading into the van to go to town for dinner to Las Casitas. A perfect evening was had by all; we were all impressed with Javier’s efforts at making his place special for his customers. It is decorated differently every time we go there.
Mulege another date palm oasis got its name from the Cochimi language meaning “large ravine of the white mouth”. It has been the recipient of numerous tropical storms including Odile leaving the town and area in a mess. Mexicans have such spirit to pick up and put things back repeatedly and go on with life in a cheerful manner.
Our next day in Mulege included a tour to the prison and Loma Linda, lunch at La Candila for very delicious hamburgers (and other good food). Since Odile we can no longer get to the lighthouse which used to be a good hike to the top for a very spectacular view of Mulege.
Some shopping was done and a last stop at the bakery for sweet treats.
Back at the park the kayak trio(Stu, Liz and Carl) carried their kayaks across the airfield and launched their kayaks at the mouth of the Mulege River and the Sea of Cortez. They had a good lengthy tour into town then back and before finishing they landed at the sight of the lighthouse and climbed up to its top then back to the park.
A margarita happy hour at the Hotel Serenidad marked our last night in Mulege and for Stuart marked the last of his margarita adventure for a while because a couple too many can and will do you in as many people discover. I always say more than one margarita can make you lipless and more than two can make you legless.
Return to Guerrero Negro
A long driving day brought us to our second stop in Guerrero Negro but this time we stayed at Mario’s full service RV Park and Restaurant. We arrived to find another caravan staying here as well. The park is spacious with lots of sites so no problem plenty of room for us all.
Almost immediately the ladies are out gathering shells, not from the sea nor the ocean but from the piles of scallop shells at the back of the parking lot. This a good fresh sea food restaurant and shells are discarded on site.
It was windy here but we busied ourselves and later all dined at Mario’s palapa restaurant. The full compliment menu had something for everyone.
Thank goodness for wind sometimes otherwise it can be very hot. The wind settled and we had cool night for sleeping. The morning was cool, calm and sunny.
Guerrero Negro is not a pretty place because vegetation does not grow around here due to the high salt content in the soil but it is an important place because Scammons lagoon has vast tidal flats full of salt which produces enough salt to supply Mexico, USA, Canada and Japan.
Back to the beach.
It was a good driving day with some wind blowing up in the late morning but the highway was fairly quiet and the group could ease up and take more space on the two lane highway.
At 1 pm we reached Bahia de Los Angeles (Bay of Angels) and Daggets RV Park where we spent 2 nights on the beach.
After lunch the group went on a driving tour of the village taking a stop at an overlook for an awesome view of the bay on the Sea of Cortez, one of the most beautiful bays in Baja then to a grocery store and back to the beach for a day in the sun. We spent the afternoon walking, reading and visiting but no kayaking today because the wind is up.
As I looked out over the bay I saw a sailboat, one good sport in windy weather. This sleepy fishing village has a beautiful setting right on the shore of the sea of Cortez where one can enjoy lovely sunrises, sunsets, kayaking, hiking, paddle boarding, fishing, and watching dolphins and whales.
Whale sharks are born and live in this bay as in other areas like Santispac and La Paz. They are large tame beasts that are the focus for many tours and swimming with whale sharks are a big tourist draw in places like La Paz. Dom & I saw one last season at Playa Santispac. You recognize just below the surface by their black and white domino looking back and fin sticking out of the water like a shark but the rest of the large body is whale like.
We enjoyed sitting around a fire. The guys used up the last of the wood they were carrying. Madera wood burns hot and makes good coals. I made up foil packets of potatoes and vegetables and roasted on the coals for half an hour; enough for a couple of meals for Dom & I. At bedtime Dom put another half barrel on top of our fire and left it overnight and through the next day.
We woke up to sunny skies and calm water. The kayakers (Dom & Mike, Stuart & Liz and Carl) headed out for a tour around the islands. Linda and I took the dogs for a long walk along the beach. Kacey read in the sun, Harold & Carol walked on the beach, Dennis walked toward the lighthouse and took photos. Dennis always had his camera. George & Gail, Chuck & Shirley walked and enjoyed visits in the shade.
After lunch we went on an excursion to town to see the museum (one of the best little museums I have seen) and Casa Diez a small onyx chapel; a representation of the original one that was destroyed in the ’70’s. We stopped at a new bakery and at Lucy’s Gallery. We met Patrick an 80 year old man who works with leather and makes honey. He tells a good story of where he lived and came to be here. He knows the area and full of local knowledge about fish etc.
We bought honey and a few leather trinkets were bought by the group. We will keep him on our tour excursion of this town.
Back at the beach each busied themselves and at 6 pm. our friends Antonio and Betty came to have happy hour with the group. They brought a couple of Canadians who are renting a house from Antonio. The evening cooled down but Dom soon warmed things up with an open fire. He added wood to the coals from the night before and a new fire started immediately.
Dom and I ate our dinner in front of the fire and later a couple of the group came out to sit around the fire and visit until bedtime.
Our longest driving day is in front of us as we say goodbye to the Sea of Cortez and beaches for awhile.
The weather was good and with a few body breaks the day passed. On route we came across a bus on a mountain curve. It had broken wheels and or axle, something like that and luckily it rested against the rock wall rather than the cliff side. The police were on the scene and further along we saw a tow truck and a replacement bus their way.
We arrived to Colonia Vicente Guerrero around 3:30 and Baja Fiesta Restaurant where dined and spent the night dry camping in their large parking lot.
Before our hosted dinner at the restaurant the group had hot showers and rested.
A fun night and a good meal was had by all.
The next morning Cecelia and her family fixed breakfast for those who wanted; Dom & I, and George & Gail and Chuck enjoyed Starbuck’s coffee and breakfast.
Valle de Guadalupe
We are now on day light savings so it was a short nights sleep. Never the less the group was ready and we set off early to our last stop of the tour, Sordo Mudo in Valle de Guadalupe.
The group maneuvered very well through Ensenada and enjoyed the beautiful scenery of the wine valley, then before too long we arrived to Sordo Mudo a Christian based residential school for deaf children in Mexico. The campground fee is a donation to the school.
After lunch we were off to LA Cetto for a wine tour and tasting. Being Sunday afternoon we joined the throng of tourists; Mexicans and a bus load of tourists from San Diego. Dom met one couple- game show winners who won a vacation which included the wine tour.
It was a lovely afternoon to taste wines and enjoy the scenery and the garden potted and beautifully treed grounds of the winery.
Sordo Mudo.
Back at the park, which is surrounded by vineyards, we organized a last happy hour together. The group prepared last meals with food that is not allowed over the border and prepared extra fresh foods and meats for later because some food is allowed if cooked or chopped as in vegetables.
The fire dancer made its last appearance for those interested in sitting out.
Last day of Tour
Day 29 and here we are at the end of the tour. A morning filled with mixed feelings as the group said goodbye to new friends and leave Baja behind.
The border crossing went well with only 20 cars in front of us. By 10- ish every one was on their way to wherever. Safe Travels all.
PS, if anyone from the group took a nice photo of us that will be suitable for the back of our books please send them to us. Thank you.
Now, here’s the group, sunburned and ready for a rest. It’s been a real treat having you all along for the ride.
Adios Baja Amigos!
DDg
