Boon docking on the beach
The morning was clear and sunny as we circled up for our pre driving meeting. Todays journey stays on the Pacific coast; we passed through scenic Santo Thomas Valley, and the busy communities of San Vicente, Colonet, Vicente Guerrero, San Quintin and Lazaro Cardenas.
There was lots of traffic today but the 210 kms slipped by easily as we meandered from good four lane to two lane with shoulders to two lane with no shoulders and climbed and descended a couple of mountains. Body breaks were chatty and fun and got us off the road and out of our rigs to walk and visit.
We arrived around 1pm to Fidel’s El Pabillon Beach Camp in Lazaro Cardenas, our stop for the day. Fidel met and greeted us with a photographer in tow. The Rv’s and the group were all in photos with Fidel for promotions of his campground. Who would not want to be here?
The remainder of the day was used to walk the miles of beautiful beach, a couple of the ladies collected a few shells, others relaxed in the sun. The pets,:Grady, Stitch and Sophie had fun running on the beach- a dogs dream place.
At sunset the guys lit the fire with Fidel’s assistance and before long the coals were perfect for roasting hotdogs. Mike and Linda shared a pot of delicious beans with corn, others shared various condiments that go well with hotdogs. Fidel joined us for hot dogs and a glass of wine.
The evening was just pleasantly cool but we enjoyed the warmth of the fireside as we visited and laughed the evening away. The sky was incredible; Harold brought out IPad with the Star view program, very interesting.
I can’t waist good coals so I wrapped a yam in foil and sunk it into the coals. My yam cooked as we sat and chatted; lunch for tomorrow.
Good fire, good food and good fun.
Boon docking in the high desert
We woke up to fog. Dom & I went walking on the beach and watched the sun rise through the fog. The fog burned off with the sunrise and the day heated quickly and we had a clear sunny day for traveling.
Todays journey took us to Rancho Santa Inez in the high desert of Catavina which is about half way between east and west of Baja. It is a small town on the highway. It always seems quiet here but the local economy depends on tourism and a first-rate hotel provides a nice stay for those interested in the cave paintings, boulder fields and cacti forests and other plant life. Hiking up the huge boulders for fantastic views is a fun thing to do.
The boulder fields, like a vast rock garden, were created by molten material cooling slowly beneath the earth’s surface. The boulders we see now were masses of granite rock that fractured vertically at the surface, over time the fractures weathered by water and freezing temperatures causing the rock mass to break into huge chunks which became further eroded which produced the rounded boulders making such an impressive landscape.
The group is accustomed to the roads now and travel well. The highway today was mostly quiet with very light traffic which is always a welcome occasion.
We had a couple of body breaks; one at the Onyx shop was a great hit with the group. We all bought something but Liz and I really wanted a turtle. There always were turtles and I guess they sold out but the Senora said there would be turtles in March. We will see.
About noon we arrived to Rancho Santa Inez just south of the town of Catavina.
The group had time to select a spot, set camp and have lunch before meeting at the van for an excursion to the cave paintings. They all looked smart with their hiking shoes and sticks. Off they went for a short drive and short hike. The cave paintings were impressive as were the trees and plants around the hike and cave. The views were impressive.
The cave paintings were created by indigenous people living here several thousand years ago. These petro-glyphs are at least 6000 years old.
The sun was very hot and thankfully for a breeze the day was comfortable. Everyone met for a happy hour before heading out for dinner at the local restaurant for a basic traditional meal.
Ralph stopped by for a visit; he and his wife spend their winters here and he always comes to visit us and to know that everything is fine with the RV’s.
The Whales Await
We turned our clocks ahead one hour last night because we will be entering southern Baja today which is in the Mountain Time Zone. A shorter sleep yet everyone was ready earlier than usual this morning. Also, decamping is quicker when boon docking.
The wind blew through the night and still this morning but the skies are clear and sunny which means it will be hot.
The drive to Guerrero Negro went well with very light traffic. The cacti forests ( Boojums, Cardon, and Elephant trees) were impressive with the century plant in full bloom.
Guerrero Negro (Black Warrior) was named after an old American whaling ship that grounded in the lagoon near the coast in 1858. The lagoon has vast tidal flats full of salt which makes this area the worlds number one salt producer. The salt is shipped to US, Canada, Mexico and Japan.
Guerrero Negro is best known to travelers as a place to view the Grey Whales. It is in Scammon’s Lagoon that the pregnant grey whales along with the single females gather. After the calves are born the young males come into the lagoons to seek out female companions.
There are three primary birthing lagoons in Baja but as I chat with other tour guides in the other lagoons they all respect the Scammon’s Lagoon.
These whales travel between feeding and breeding grounds every year. They leave the waters off Alaska in October and arrive into the warm lagoons of Baja by early January. The whales that are not using the lagoons spend their time around Baja. They are seen often in the Sea of Cortez.
Years ago when Dom & I traveled in Baja we had our favorite place to sit on the beach at Todos Santos watching whales. The whales came to rub themselves on the sand bank just off the shore.
We arrived to Malarrimo Hotel and RV Park in Guerrero Negro for a late taco lunch at Tony’s one of our favorite taco stands. Some of us walked while a couple road in the van with Dom. After lunch we walked a bit further to the grocery store to shop for the next 4 days including a potluck meal on the beach.
Back at the Park everyone had a quiet afternoon then we all met for a happy hour and dinner at Malarrimo’s Restaurant.
The meals were done well and the waiters were attentive. Later on, couples went for an evening stroll. A good day.
This morning, eight of the group members are on the whale tour. The morning is calm, warm and sunny. The whale watching tour has never been a disappointment.
I don’t go everytime but last March I had an incredible tour where the whales rolled and bobbed their big heads out out of the water within touching distance; we all stroked them. An excitement and connection I can’t describe. It was an honor to be with these great animals.
Meanwhile Harold & Carol, and Stuart & Liz from Vancouver who did not go on those whale watching because they have been on other whale tours back home. Instead they went on their own excursion about town and found shells to share with the group.
The group returned around noon fully satisfied with their whale watching tour; Linda cried as she stroked the baby whale, Mike said he would go again, George said it was the best whale tour and best value.
Date Palm Oasis
We had a later departure today because of the whale watching tour this morning. Todays shorter journey took us from the Pacific Ocean to the middle of the desert to San Ignacio a date palm oasis.
The highway was in good condition with lots of big rig traffic. The weather was hot and windy. On route we came across a vehicle on fire on the the side of the road. The police had just arrived and it was pretty evident that the fire just started; the interior of the cab of the truck was burning. The police stopped the traffic and we all sat and watched the truck burn until the police felt it was safe for us move passed it. We are not sure what happened but the delivery trucks small load was on the ground and stuff was still burning on its flat bed.
We arrived to Rice & Beans Hotel and RV Park at 4 pm, slightly later than normal due to vehicle fire. The sky was dark over San Ignacio as if to rain but it held off and passed over. We had a nice tour around town; the Zocola, the mission church, the museum was closed but worth a look through when it is open, and we had a walk a-bout town. Some of the group bought ice cream cones, and others bought home baked date cakes and pie. Dom drove us around the town where signs of Odile’s damage are still visible but certainly some clean up has happened.
The magnificent mission church of San Ignacio built by the Dominican missionary Juan Gomez in 1786 and later served as a base for the Jesuits missionaries. The church is built of lava rock and has walls four feet thick. It was restored in 1986 and is used by the local community for masses, weddings, funerals and daily worship. It is one of the most impressive of the Baja missions.
The date palms were introduced to Baja by the Jesuit missionaries around 1765. Date palms are found in several oasis in Baja with the largest stands of date palms are in San Ignacio and Mulege where they are the principal agricultural resource.
Dates are very nutritious, providing calcium, phosphorous, iron, vitamin A, niacin, and ascorbic acid but they are also high calories and carbohydrates. These dates are exported to mainland Mexico.
Back at the RV Park we all went to Rice & Beans Restaurant for margueritas- the best in Baja, and had our meal there as well. Everyone was happy with their meals and the marguerites.
Beach camping at the Sea of Cortez
Playa Santispac at Bahia Concepcion is our destination today. The beaches here are are very popular and offer warm,calm, and shallow water; good for swimming, snorkeling, kayaking and fishing compared to the beaches at the pacific side which offer a big surf for surfing, fishing and whale watching although whales are often spotted in the Sea of cortez as well.
We had some rain on route today just before passing through Santa Rosalia where we stopped for a short break to walk along the beach.
Shortly after our fuel stop in Mulege we arrived to Playa Santispac for 2 nights beach camping. Their was plenty of room for us to arrange the RV’s as we wanted. After lunch Dom readied the kayaks for a go around the bay. Stuart and Carl also brought their kayaks and couldn’t wait to get out on the water.
I went for a walk with Mike & Linda and the dogs. On our return we joined the rest of the group in relax mode.
Evening arrived and a valentine party was brewing at the beach palapa. Stuart & Liz, and Harold & carol went for a meal and to dance to live music. The rest of sat and visited until it rained and we all retreated for a late supper.
It rained on and off through the night, which made for a soothing nights sleep.
We all woke up to catch the tamale wagon. Tamale’s for breakfast, yum, yum. Carl saved his for lunch.
The water was silky smooth and overcast skies were threatening rain sometime today. Dom & I headed out in the kayak and enjoyed a good paddle around the islands looking at birds and fish; a great blue heron let us get very close to it before it took flight and the many colored fish were mesmerizing as they scooted around the shoreline.
Mike and Harold found a good spot on the shoreline to stand and fish. They threw everything back but enjoyed their time anyway.
George has never kayaked before but couldn’t resist giving it a try.
The morning remained mostly overcast with periods of hot sun then around lunch it rained which gave a good opportunity to go in for lunch and work on our potluck meals.
After the rain stopped Stuart and Liz headed up one of the mountains for a hike while others puttered and started putting the kayaks away. The sun is shining as Stuart and Liz returned with comments of the terrific view of the bay and islands.
Everyone met for happy hour which progressed into our potluck meal. Bruce & Marion, friends of Baja Amigos, joined us for for the evening. They brought the wood and built the fire which went on until a couple disappeared, then another couple disappeared and then at 9:49 pm the rest of us said goodnight and went to bed. It was a late night considering Baja midnight is at 8 pm.
